getting to Hebron

Flew to Amman as it's cheaper than flying to Tel Aviv, spent a day there wandering around ruined Roman temples and climbing an incredibly steep Roman theatre. Amman sprawls over hills and has virtually no public transport so the roads are clogged by tens of thousands of cars, most of which seem to be taxis. Jordanians are charming and friendly and every other one seems to be a Palestinian. Here are a couple of photos.

Caught the bus the next day to King Hussein Crossing (Allenby Bridge), and what a spectacular drive it was down and down to the Jordan Valley. Then through the Jordanian side (lots of stamping of passport etc), across the bridge to the Israeli side. Was expecting it to be similar in tone to Tel Aviv i.e. unsmiling and suspicious, but not at all. Very friendly if rather chaotic, lots of smiles and waved through. If anyone reading this wants the detail of the trip in terms of visas, where to get the bus/shared taxi etc, just let me know. It's rather complicated and each side has specific demands.

One night and a day in Jerusalem staying in the Austrian Hospice. Could see out of my window on Friday morning a group of Christians processing down the Via Dolorosa chanting to Jesus to bless them when they got to his Kingdom just as twenty to thirty Israeli police/army/riot police gathered in the same spot to wait 'in readiness' to quell any trouble from Muslims going to or from Al Aqsa Mosque.  It's got to be the most (un)holy place on earth! Here's the view from the Hospice roof.

Jerusalem to Bethlehem by very expensive taxi as all the roads were blocked (although no one knew why), through the checkpoint and on to Beit Sahour for a night and a delightful welcome from Milada at the Arab Women's Union Al Beit Guesthouse. Then next days final leg to Hebron to meet my contact. I've described the situation in Hebron in an earlier post (from 2009). Little has changed, if anything it's worse.