our first hosts

Awarta was our first destination on the trail and our first overnight stop. High on a hilltop overlooking a beautiful valley with Nablus spread out down below (and settlers and settlements and settlement roads spread out on the surrounding hilltops). Our host family was gorgeous - children, siblings, parents - all delighted to see us, full of warmth and welcome. Our sleeping quarters were on a roof top. Bit of a shock initially as we'd only met as a group that morning and found we were all sleeping in the one room (which was OK) with see-through curtain to bathroom. We had a marvellous evening, eating together on the roof under the stars with our male hosts (the women don't join mixed groups of strangers at meals). Children chortling and cavorting like puppies. Very good conversation with our unusual hosts. The eldest son joined us and his father said he needed to work hard to go to university. I asked him what he wanted to do and he said medicine, in Germany. This will of course need substantial funding from elsewhere.

But we insisted on meeting the host's brother's wife (sorry but everyone lives together as extended family) who'd prepared our delicious food. She was initially shy but then after some prompting from her husband showed us her marvellous embroidery. I asked if I could buy a piece as a wedding present for friends in Ireland. She insisted I take it as a gift, I insisted I pay and in the end got my way. She was very thrilled and when we left kissed me.

The villagers get regular hassle from settlers - the latter claiming that a site within the village is a Jewish tomb. Our hosts say it isn't but they break in at night a couple of times a week. There's a military base at the bottom of the hill but never any come-back on the settlers. I forgot to say earlier that Palestinians have to make complaints to the military who then pass them on to the police who deal with the settlers (by which time they're long gone..)